|
31 Oct
|
Almscliff |
|
| |
Blackpool Promenade |
E1 |
|
Easy apart from the stomach traverse at the end. |
| |
Z-Climb Eliminate |
E1 |
|
Just the one hard move on the lower section. |
|
24 Oct
|
Giggleswick North |
|
| |
The Hearty Breakfast |
F6a+ |
y |
A bit stiff for a warm up route. |
| |
The Boltergeist |
F6b+ |
y |
A hidden hold on the crux lower wall. Had to redpoint it. |
| |
Resins to be Cheerful |
F6c |
y |
Had two goes at redpointing this but fell on the same move each time. |
| |
Life on Mars |
F6b |
|
Felt a bit tired from the exertions to the right. |
|
24 Oct
|
Robin Proctor’s Scar |
|
| |
Flying Horseman |
F6a |
y |
End of the day. Had been trying the F6c off to the left so felt jaded. |
|
17 Oct
|
Robin Proctor’s Scar |
|
| |
Tombstone Blues |
F6a |
y |
Quite cold so good that it is easy. |
| |
Subterranean Homesick Blues |
F6a+ |
y |
Still cold due to the wind. |
| |
Wheels on Fire |
F6a+ |
y |
As good as ever - felt cold. |
| |
Marshall Plan |
F6c |
y |
Finally got the red-point - been waiting since April. The wind was now baltic. |
| |
Knocking on Heaven's Door |
F6a+ |
y |
A long time since I had done this. Felt strangely difficult for the grade. |
| |
Flying Horseman |
F6a |
y |
Another that I hadn't done for a long while. Just a couple of moves on the middle wall. Time to go as the cold had got to us. |
|
10 Oct
|
Froggatt Edge |
|
| |
Strapiombante |
E1 |
|
Easy apart from the last move. Had tweeked my hamstring earlier which made it feel harder. |
|
25 Sept
|
Comb HIll |
|
| |
The Big Groove |
F6a+ |
y |
Quite pleasant. |
| |
Shoulder Charge |
F6a+ |
y |
Not very good. |
| |
Fine Tooth |
F6b |
y |
One very hard move near the bottom then easy. It was just effing cold! |
|
25 Sept
|
Giggleswick South |
|
| |
The Constant Gardner |
F6a |
y |
It seems to have lost some holds. |
| |
Displacement Activity |
F6a+ |
y |
A pity that the lower half isn't as good as the upper. |
| |
Amical Rivalite |
F6a+ |
y |
I always find this hard for the grade. |
| |
Comic Relief |
F6a |
y |
Not very good. Hollow and spooky. |
| |
Suspend Eid |
F6b |
y |
Just a short thin section. |
| |
Adjusted Hours |
F6a+ |
|
Just did this on top-rope to wind down. |
|
12 Sept
|
Castlebergh |
|
| |
Poppies for Tea? |
F6a |
y |
A pile of crap! |
| |
Blacksmith's Corner |
F6a |
y |
An even bigger pile of crap! |
| |
Victoria Hall |
Fa |
y |
Tricky to start and with a nice finish. |
| |
Ye Olde Naked Man |
F6b |
y |
Just a couple of awkward moves at half height. |
| |
Off the Rails |
F6a+ |
y |
Quite pleasant but spoilt by the ledge at two thirds height. |
|
12 Sept
|
Giggleswick North |
|
| |
Liquid Acrobat |
F6a |
y |
A nice lower half but a bit spooky at the top. |
| |
Bad Genie |
F6c |
|
Sustained. Did most of it on the lead but didn't have the strength to go for the red point. |
|
4 Sept
|
Trow Gill |
|
| |
Sunday Best |
F6a+ |
y |
I'd forgotten how to do the crux! Felt a bit worrying at the top. |
| |
Alick |
F6b+ |
y |
Thought it was F6b! So no wonder it felt a bit hard for the grade. |
| |
Popmaster |
F6b+ |
y |
Easy until the final few moves. |
| |
Boogie Wonderland |
F6a |
y |
Felt very easy after the last two routes. |
| |
Clink |
F7a |
|
Just did it on a top rope. A couple of hard sections then a very fingery crux. |
| |
Disco Inferno |
F6b |
|
One really hard, blind move. |
|
30 August
|
Blue Scar |
|
| |
Some Blue for You |
E1 |
y |
Years since I've done this - also has the world's biggest thread! |
| |
Blue Sister |
E3 |
|
Really struggled on this, partly due to getting the line slightly wrong. |
| |
Desire |
F6a |
y |
Yet again! |
| |
Ardour and Harder |
F6a+ |
y |
Still just the one move. |
|
29 August
|
Blue Scar |
|
| |
Desire |
F6a |
y |
Becoming the traditional warm up. |
| |
Rising Damp |
F6b |
y |
Mistook this for Ardour and Harder! |
| |
Scarface |
F6c+ |
y |
A couple of decidedly hard moves, fortunately a decent rest between them. Needed a couple of rests. |
| |
Underneath the Arches |
F6b |
y |
Meant to be F6a+ but harder than most of the F6bs to the right. |
|
8 August
|
Blue Scar |
|
| |
Are we Mad? |
F6a |
y |
A bit damp at the bottom but otherwise OK. |
| |
Beyond the call of Duty |
F6a |
y |
One tricky section through a bulge at the top. |
| |
Make my Day |
F6b |
y |
Made some silly moves on the bottom section somehow. |
| |
Desire |
F6a |
y |
More of a cool down today. |
| |
Midge Repellent |
F6b |
|
Getting pretty tired now - didn't rest or mess about but I wouldn't have been able to lead it. |
|
1 August
|
Robin Proctor’s Scar |
|
| |
Tombstone Blues |
F6a |
y |
It had only just stopped raining. |
| |
Wheels on Fire |
F6a+ |
y |
As good as ever - felt easy. |
| |
The Shield |
|
y |
Thought I'd have a go at this but got stymied by one move, still slightly damp from the showers. |
|
1 August
|
High Stoney Bank |
|
| |
Summertime (and the weather is lousy) |
F6b |
|
Steep with a distinct crux. |
|
24 July
|
Blue Scar |
|
| |
Desire |
F6a |
y |
A nice warm up. |
| |
Ardour and Harder |
F6a+ |
y |
One very tricky move but otherwise easy. |
| |
Dark Summer |
F6b+ |
y |
Really quite sustained and intricate climbing. |
| |
The Argument of Silence |
F6b |
y |
Sustained and a bit steeper than the other routes. |
| |
Make my Day |
F6b |
|
Slightly easier but with the crux at the top. |
|
17 July
|
Blue Scar |
|
| |
Rising Damp |
F6b |
y |
Just a short crux section but otherwise pleasant. |
| |
Meaty Beaty Big and Bouncy |
F6b+ |
y |
Quite tough, especially since the chalk stopped before the hard climbing! Had been told this was F6a+... |
| |
Desire |
F6a |
y |
Easy apart from one short section - long reach helped! |
| |
Blue Blood |
F6c |
|
Sustained. Was tired, not having done much steep limestone for a while. |
|
27 June
|
Wilton Three |
|
| |
Canine Crucifiction |
E2 |
|
Low in the grade and with good gear. |
| |
Brastium |
E1 |
y |
Felt a lot better on this than on Central Route a few weeks ago. |
|
27 June
|
Wilton Two |
|
| |
Falling Crack |
E2 |
|
Pumpy and sweaty! |
|
23 June
|
Weem Crags |
|
| |
The Real Mackay |
F6a |
y |
Hard to start then awkward all the way to the top. |
| |
One Step Beyond |
F6a |
y |
Steep slab to a couple of very steep moves to the belay. |
|
22 June
|
Loch Tollaidh Crags |
|
| |
Red Faced |
E1 |
y |
Pumpy crack leading to easy slab climbing. |
|
21 June
|
Stone Valley Crags |
|
| |
Blood Feud |
E1 |
y |
Hard start then excellent slab climbing. |
|
30 May
|
Moughton Nab |
|
| |
Arthurian Ledge Endk |
F6a |
y |
Not very good - quite loose in the lower half. |
| |
Joust in Time |
F6a+ |
y |
A bit of a one move wonder. |
| |
Camelot |
F6a |
y |
Quite pleasant. |
| |
Knights of Old |
F6a |
y |
Harder than the F6a+! |
| |
Birthday Girl Left Hand |
F6a |
y |
A little bit tricky. |
| |
Party Pooper |
F6b |
y |
A technical sequence through a bulge but it's hard to avoid moving into other routes. |
| |
Four Candles |
F6b |
y |
A couple of long reaches on steep ground. |
| |
Icing on the Cake |
F6b |
y |
Missed a hold so took a flyer. |
| |
Mordred |
F6b |
y |
Not very good, one long reach at the bottom then loose climbing to the top. |
| |
Mildred |
F6b |
y |
Another unbalanced route with loose climbing above the initial wall. |
|
23 May
|
Attermire Scar |
|
| |
Neon Crack |
E1 |
|
I’d soloed this years ago. You have to do the crux before you get the gear in! |
|
16 May
|
Giggleswick North |
|
| |
Fianl Offering |
F6a+ |
y |
A really hard pull at the start then easy. |
| |
Resins to be Cheerful |
F6c |
y |
Quite sustained. Did with one fall. |
| |
Debbie Direct |
F6b |
y |
A really hard pull at the start then easy. |
| |
The Craftsmen |
F6b+ |
|
A couple of really hard pulls in the middle, hard for the grade. |
| |
Joinery |
F6a+ |
y |
Unpleasantly creaky and loose at the top. |
|
15 May
|
Troutal Gorge |
|
| |
Pig Watching |
E2 |
|
Just top-roped. Rather dirty. |
|
15 May
|
White How |
|
| |
Natural Progression |
E1 |
|
At the top end of the grade. |
|
9 May
|
Giggleswick North |
|
| |
North of the Border |
F6a |
y |
A really hard pull at the start then easy. |
| |
The Adze |
F6a+ |
y |
Spookily loose. |
| |
Tong and Groove |
F6a |
y |
Not very good. |
| |
Retro Killer |
F6b+ |
y |
Thin climbing to get to and past the second bolt then jug hauling. |
| |
Ben Hur |
F6a |
y |
Steep and easy. |
| |
Northern Sole |
F6a |
y |
A pleasant steep slab. |
| |
A Block off the old Chip |
F6a |
y |
Steady climbing. |
| |
The Hearty Breakfast |
F6a+ |
y |
One stiff move in the upper groove but otherwise nothing of note. |
| |
Root Sixty Six |
F6a |
y |
Something pleasant to wind down on. |
|
2 May
|
Giggleswick South (again!) |
|
| |
Catman Do |
F6a+ |
y |
A bit dynamic at the top! |
| |
Feline Fun |
F6b |
y |
Nice and fingery to start, quite sustained and thought provoking. |
| |
Get Shorty |
F6a+ |
y |
A tricky start followed by jug hauling. |
| |
Rambling on my Mind |
F6a+ |
y |
One of the longer routes on this section, a bit pumpy near the top. |
| |
Walk the Line |
F6a |
y |
Scrappy scrambling leading to a couple of good steep moves. |
| |
The Little Waster |
F6b |
y |
Fingery climbing. |
| |
Red Dwarf |
F6a |
y |
Dirty at the top which made clipping the belay interesting! |
| |
Norman Wisdom |
F6a |
y |
Nice lower section then deteriorates. |
| |
The Constant Gardner |
F6a |
y |
Quite loose with an interesting finish. |
|
26 April
|
The Cuttings |
|
| |
Two Fingers |
F6a |
y |
Really polished. Felt weary on this so wasn’t too bothered about doing anything else. |
| |
Rusty the Redneck takes one for the Team |
F6a+ |
|
Very good climbing on surprising holds but what a name! |
|
24 April
|
Blacknor South |
|
| |
It’s My Life |
F6a |
y |
Everything felt a little greasy, again felt hard for the grade. |
| |
Talk |
F6a+ |
y |
Got a bit mixed up near the ledge so took the biggest fall of the weekend! |
| |
Ocean Drive |
F6a+ |
|
Pumpy! Felt quite tired |
| |
Fear’s Younger Brother |
F6a |
y |
Thought it was a bit bold near the top - it turned out I missed the top bolt! |
| |
Paying it Forward |
F6a |
y |
A really technical lower wall then good balancy climbing to a steep finish. |
| |
Escape from the Dwaafee Room |
F6a |
y |
Another thin lower wall then pleasant climbing. |
|
23 April
|
Blacknor North |
|
| |
Apfelstrudel |
F6a |
y |
Hard for the grade - F5+ in one guide - more like a hard F6a+! |
| |
Actually, Shit Happens |
F6a |
y |
Good, steep jug pulling. |
| |
Reptile Smile |
F6a+ |
y |
Pretty pumpy! Flowstone takes some getting used to. |
| |
Pregnant Pause |
F6a+ |
y |
Long, long, with some amazing exposure at the top. |
| |
The Lizard of Oz |
F6a |
|
Quite technical, just followed it then led a bit and took some practice falls. |
|
17 April
|
Wilton 1 |
|
| |
Ann |
E1 |
|
A technical move low down to gain a ledge then pumpy cracks. |
| |
Central Route |
E1 |
y |
Sustained. My first E1 lead since last May and the first since my accident. Had to rest a couple of times after I ran out of Oomph! |
| |
Wombat Chimney |
E2 |
|
Still knackered from the previous route! |
| |
Cameo |
E1 |
|
At least this was on your feet. |
|
11 April
|
Attermire Scar |
|
| |
Brutus |
E2 |
|
No really hard moves but so pumpy! Quite drained from yesterday, |
|
10 April
|
Robin Proctor’s Scar |
|
| |
Tombstone Blues |
F6a |
y |
A pleasant warm up. |
| |
Wheels on Fire |
F6a+ |
y |
As good as ever - felt a bit pumped on this. |
| |
Subterranean Homesick Blues |
F6a+ |
y |
Suddenly felt quite pumped! |
| |
Central Buttress |
F6b |
y |
Seemed to have got some of my strength back as it didn’t feel so bad. |
| |
The Marshall Plan |
F6b+ |
y |
Good climbing but was a bit nervous so ended up dogging it. Should do it OK next time. |
| |
Decline and Fall |
F6b |
y |
A bit poor - was quite dynamic on this as I was getting tired. |
| |
Second Wind |
F6a+ |
|
Definite end of the day. |
|
8 April
|
Panorama Crag |
|
| |
Points of View |
F6a |
y |
Just one long reach really. |
| |
Identity Crisis |
F6a+ |
y |
Another one move wonder |
| |
Sneak Preview |
F6a |
y |
Somewhat overgraded, would probably be VS without the bolts! |
| |
Curtain Raiser |
F6a |
y |
A bit damp and quite poor. |
| |
Camer Shy |
F6a |
y |
This had been wet when we arrived but had just dried enough. |
| |
Belle Vue |
F6a |
y |
Quite athletic but otherwise unremarkable. |
|
8 April
|
Giggleswick South |
|
| |
The Ice Hose |
F6a |
y |
Steady away, you fight to keep out of the route to the right which is ... |
| |
The White Spider |
F6a+ |
y |
Pleasant climbing. |
| |
The Second Icefield |
F6a+ |
y |
Pleasant climbing with some surprising holds. |
|
4 April
|
Giggleswick South |
|
| |
The Constant Gardner |
F6a |
y |
Quite loose with an interesting finish. |
| |
Displacement Activity |
F6a+ |
y |
Short and off balancey climbing, only three moves really. |
| |
Taking the Mickey |
F6a+ |
y |
Another route with a short sharp section. |
| |
Minnie |
F6a+ |
y |
And again - a one move wonder. |
| |
Catman Do |
F6a+ |
|
Getting tired so just followed this. |
| |
Amical Rivalite |
F6a+ |
|
Very tired so lots of hanging on the rope! |
|
13 Mar
|
Stoney Middleton |
|
| |
Om |
E1 |
|
Second route pump! |
| |
Mani |
E1 |
|
Still pumped! But somewhat easier than Om. |
| |
Bingo Wall |
E2 |
|
Found this easier than the two E1s! Mind you it is more about footwork than brawn. |
|
12 Mar
|
Giggleswick South |
|
| |
The Ugly Duckling |
F6a |
y |
Short awkward crux. |
| |
Atomic Kitten |
F6a |
y |
A really awkward finish. |
| |
Rat Poison |
F6a |
y |
Quite dynamic on the upper wall. |
| |
Crazy Paver |
F6a+ |
y |
Easier than the last two routes. |
|
7 Mar
|
Robin Proctor’s Scar |
|
| |
Tombstone Blues |
F6a |
y |
Still pleasant and nice to be back on rock after over six months since my accident. |
| |
The Marshall Plan |
F6b+ |
|
Struggled, but not surprising really since I’ve got no stamina. |