Bob Wightman

2010 Climbing Diary

This table is little more than an electronic version of a notebook that I keep each year about the climbs that I do. Note that I have only ever recorded those routes in the extreme grades. It may be elitist but in its own peculiar way it forces me to attempt routes that are close to my limit in order to keep the average grade up.

There are links to any trip reports or photos in the notes column.

Note that bolted routes are included in this list and are given French Gradings indicated by F before the grade.

31 OctAlmscliff
 Blackpool PromenadeE1  Easy apart from the stomach traverse at the end.
 Z-Climb EliminateE1  Just the one hard move on the lower section.
24 OctGiggleswick North
 The Hearty BreakfastF6a+y A bit stiff for a warm up route.
 The BoltergeistF6b+y A hidden hold on the crux lower wall. Had to redpoint it.
 Resins to be CheerfulF6cy Had two goes at redpointing this but fell on the same move each time.
 Life on MarsF6b  Felt a bit tired from the exertions to the right.
24 OctRobin Proctor’s Scar
 Flying HorsemanF6ay End of the day. Had been trying the F6c off to the left so felt jaded.
17 OctRobin Proctor’s Scar
 Tombstone BluesF6ay Quite cold so good that it is easy.
 Subterranean Homesick BluesF6a+y Still cold due to the wind.
 Wheels on FireF6a+y As good as ever - felt cold.
 Marshall PlanF6cy Finally got the red-point - been waiting since April. The wind was now baltic.
 Knocking on Heaven's DoorF6a+y A long time since I had done this. Felt strangely difficult for the grade.
 Flying HorsemanF6ay Another that I hadn't done for a long while. Just a couple of moves on the middle wall. Time to go as the cold had got to us.
10 OctFroggatt Edge
 StrapiombanteE1  Easy apart from the last move. Had tweeked my hamstring earlier which made it feel harder.
25 SeptComb HIll
 The Big GrooveF6a+y Quite pleasant.
 Shoulder ChargeF6a+y Not very good.
 Fine ToothF6by One very hard move near the bottom then easy. It was just effing cold!
25 SeptGiggleswick South
 The Constant GardnerF6ay It seems to have lost some holds.
 Displacement ActivityF6a+y A pity that the lower half isn't as good as the upper.
 Amical RivaliteF6a+y I always find this hard for the grade.
 Comic ReliefF6ay Not very good. Hollow and spooky.
 Suspend EidF6by Just a short thin section.
 Adjusted HoursF6a+  Just did this on top-rope to wind down.
12 SeptCastlebergh
 Poppies for Tea?F6ay A pile of crap!
 Blacksmith's CornerF6ay An even bigger pile of crap!
 Victoria HallFay Tricky to start and with a nice finish.
 Ye Olde Naked ManF6by Just a couple of awkward moves at half height.
 Off the RailsF6a+y Quite pleasant but spoilt by the ledge at two thirds height.
12 SeptGiggleswick North
 Liquid AcrobatF6ay A nice lower half but a bit spooky at the top.
 Bad GenieF6c  Sustained. Did most of it on the lead but didn't have the strength to go for the red point.
4 SeptTrow Gill
 Sunday BestF6a+y I'd forgotten how to do the crux! Felt a bit worrying at the top.
 AlickF6b+y Thought it was F6b! So no wonder it felt a bit hard for the grade.
 PopmasterF6b+y Easy until the final few moves.
 Boogie WonderlandF6ay Felt very easy after the last two routes.
 ClinkF7a  Just did it on a top rope. A couple of hard sections then a very fingery crux.
 Disco InfernoF6b  One really hard, blind move.
30 AugustBlue Scar
 Some Blue for YouE1y Years since I've done this - also has the world's biggest thread!
 Blue SisterE3  Really struggled on this, partly due to getting the line slightly wrong.
 DesireF6ay Yet again!
 Ardour and HarderF6a+y Still just the one move.
29 AugustBlue Scar
 DesireF6ay Becoming the traditional warm up.
 Rising DampF6by Mistook this for Ardour and Harder!
 ScarfaceF6c+y A couple of decidedly hard moves, fortunately a decent rest between them. Needed a couple of rests.
 Underneath the ArchesF6by Meant to be F6a+ but harder than most of the F6bs to the right.
8 AugustBlue Scar
 Are we Mad?F6ay A bit damp at the bottom but otherwise OK.
 Beyond the call of DutyF6ay One tricky section through a bulge at the top.
 Make my DayF6by Made some silly moves on the bottom section somehow.
 DesireF6ay More of a cool down today.
 Midge RepellentF6b  Getting pretty tired now - didn't rest or mess about but I wouldn't have been able to lead it.
1 AugustRobin Proctor’s Scar
 Tombstone BluesF6ay It had only just stopped raining.
 Wheels on FireF6a+y As good as ever - felt easy.
 The Shield y Thought I'd have a go at this but got stymied by one move, still slightly damp from the showers.
1 AugustHigh Stoney Bank
 Summertime (and the weather is lousy) F6b  Steep with a distinct crux.
24 JulyBlue Scar
 DesireF6ay A nice warm up.
 Ardour and HarderF6a+y One very tricky move but otherwise easy.
 Dark SummerF6b+y Really quite sustained and intricate climbing.
 The Argument of SilenceF6by Sustained and a bit steeper than the other routes.
 Make my DayF6b  Slightly easier but with the crux at the top.
17 JulyBlue Scar
 Rising DampF6by Just a short crux section but otherwise pleasant.
 Meaty Beaty Big and BouncyF6b+y Quite tough, especially since the chalk stopped before the hard climbing! Had been told this was F6a+...
 DesireF6ay Easy apart from one short section - long reach helped!
 Blue BloodF6c  Sustained. Was tired, not having done much steep limestone for a while.
27 JuneWilton Three
 Canine CrucifictionE2  Low in the grade and with good gear.
 BrastiumE1y Felt a lot better on this than on Central Route a few weeks ago.
27 JuneWilton Two
 Falling CrackE2  Pumpy and sweaty!
23 JuneWeem Crags
 The Real MackayF6ay Hard to start then awkward all the way to the top.
 One Step BeyondF6ay Steep slab to a couple of very steep moves to the belay.
22 JuneLoch Tollaidh Crags
 Red FacedE1y Pumpy crack leading to easy slab climbing.
21 JuneStone Valley Crags
 Blood FeudE1y Hard start then excellent slab climbing.
30 MayMoughton Nab
 Arthurian Ledge EndkF6ay Not very good - quite loose in the lower half.
 Joust in TimeF6a+y A bit of a one move wonder.
 CamelotF6ay Quite pleasant.
 Knights of OldF6ay Harder than the F6a+!
 Birthday Girl Left HandF6ay A little bit tricky.
 Party PooperF6by A technical sequence through a bulge but it's hard to avoid moving into other routes.
 Four CandlesF6by A couple of long reaches on steep ground.
 Icing on the CakeF6by Missed a hold so took a flyer.
 MordredF6by Not very good, one long reach at the bottom then loose climbing to the top.
 MildredF6by Another unbalanced route with loose climbing above the initial wall.
23 MayAttermire Scar
 Neon CrackE1  I’d soloed this years ago. You have to do the crux before you get the gear in!
16 MayGiggleswick North
 Fianl OfferingF6a+y A really hard pull at the start then easy.
 Resins to be CheerfulF6cy Quite sustained. Did with one fall.
 Debbie DirectF6by A really hard pull at the start then easy.
 The CraftsmenF6b+  A couple of really hard pulls in the middle, hard for the grade.
 JoineryF6a+y Unpleasantly creaky and loose at the top.
15 MayTroutal Gorge
 Pig WatchingE2  Just top-roped. Rather dirty.
15 MayWhite How
 Natural ProgressionE1  At the top end of the grade.
9 MayGiggleswick North
 North of the BorderF6ay A really hard pull at the start then easy.
 The AdzeF6a+y Spookily loose.
 Tong and GrooveF6ay Not very good.
 Retro KillerF6b+y Thin climbing to get to and past the second bolt then jug hauling.
 Ben HurF6ay Steep and easy.
 Northern SoleF6ay A pleasant steep slab.
 A Block off the old ChipF6ay Steady climbing.
 The Hearty BreakfastF6a+y One stiff move in the upper groove but otherwise nothing of note.
 Root Sixty SixF6ay Something pleasant to wind down on.
2 MayGiggleswick South (again!)
 Catman DoF6a+y A bit dynamic at the top!
 Feline FunF6by Nice and fingery to start, quite sustained and thought provoking.
 Get ShortyF6a+y A tricky start followed by jug hauling.
 Rambling on my MindF6a+y One of the longer routes on this section, a bit pumpy near the top.
 Walk the LineF6ay Scrappy scrambling leading to a couple of good steep moves.
 The Little WasterF6by Fingery climbing.
 Red DwarfF6ay Dirty at the top which made clipping the belay interesting!
 Norman WisdomF6ay Nice lower section then deteriorates.
 The Constant GardnerF6ay Quite loose with an interesting finish.
26 AprilThe Cuttings
 Two FingersF6ay Really polished. Felt weary on this so wasn’t too bothered about doing anything else.
 Rusty the Redneck takes one for the TeamF6a+  Very good climbing on surprising holds but what a name!
24 AprilBlacknor South
 It’s My LifeF6ay Everything felt a little greasy, again felt hard for the grade.
 TalkF6a+y Got a bit mixed up near the ledge so took the biggest fall of the weekend!
 Ocean DriveF6a+  Pumpy! Felt quite tired
 Fear’s Younger BrotherF6ay Thought it was a bit bold near the top - it turned out I missed the top bolt!
 Paying it ForwardF6ay A really technical lower wall then good balancy climbing to a steep finish.
 Escape from the Dwaafee RoomF6ay Another thin lower wall then pleasant climbing.
23 AprilBlacknor North
 ApfelstrudelF6ay Hard for the grade - F5+ in one guide - more like a hard F6a+!
 Actually, Shit HappensF6ay Good, steep jug pulling.
 Reptile SmileF6a+y Pretty pumpy! Flowstone takes some getting used to.
 Pregnant PauseF6a+y Long, long, with some amazing exposure at the top.
 The Lizard of OzF6a  Quite technical, just followed it then led a bit and took some practice falls.
17 AprilWilton 1
 AnnE1  A technical move low down to gain a ledge then pumpy cracks.
 Central RouteE1y Sustained. My first E1 lead since last May and the first since my accident. Had to rest a couple of times after I ran out of Oomph!
 Wombat ChimneyE2  Still knackered from the previous route!
 CameoE1  At least this was on your feet.
11 AprilAttermire Scar
 BrutusE2  No really hard moves but so pumpy! Quite drained from yesterday,
10 AprilRobin Proctor’s Scar
 Tombstone BluesF6ay A pleasant warm up.
 Wheels on FireF6a+y As good as ever - felt a bit pumped on this.
 Subterranean Homesick BluesF6a+y Suddenly felt quite pumped!
 Central ButtressF6by Seemed to have got some of my strength back as it didn’t feel so bad.
 The Marshall PlanF6b+y Good climbing but was a bit nervous so ended up dogging it. Should do it OK next time.
 Decline and FallF6by A bit poor - was quite dynamic on this as I was getting tired.
 Second WindF6a+  Definite end of the day.
8 AprilPanorama Crag
 Points of ViewF6ay Just one long reach really.
 Identity CrisisF6a+y Another one move wonder
 Sneak PreviewF6ay Somewhat overgraded, would probably be VS without the bolts!
 Curtain RaiserF6ay A bit damp and quite poor.
 Camer ShyF6ay This had been wet when we arrived but had just dried enough.
 Belle VueF6ay Quite athletic but otherwise unremarkable.
8 AprilGiggleswick South
 The Ice HoseF6ay Steady away, you fight to keep out of the route to the right which is ...
 The White SpiderF6a+y Pleasant climbing.
 The Second IcefieldF6a+y Pleasant climbing with some surprising holds.
4 AprilGiggleswick South
 The Constant GardnerF6ay Quite loose with an interesting finish.
 Displacement ActivityF6a+y Short and off balancey climbing, only three moves really.
 Taking the MickeyF6a+y Another route with a short sharp section.
 MinnieF6a+y And again - a one move wonder.
 Catman DoF6a+  Getting tired so just followed this.
 Amical RivaliteF6a+  Very tired so lots of hanging on the rope!
13 MarStoney Middleton
 OmE1  Second route pump!
 ManiE1  Still pumped! But somewhat easier than Om.
 Bingo WallE2  Found this easier than the two E1s! Mind you it is more about footwork than brawn.
12 MarGiggleswick South
 The Ugly DucklingF6ay Short awkward crux.
 Atomic KittenF6ay A really awkward finish.
 Rat PoisonF6ay Quite dynamic on the upper wall.
 Crazy PaverF6a+y Easier than the last two routes.
7 MarRobin Proctor’s Scar
 Tombstone BluesF6ay Still pleasant and nice to be back on rock after over six months since my accident.
 The Marshall PlanF6b+  Struggled, but not surprising really since I’ve got no stamina.