Bob Wightman

2009 Climbing Diary

This table is little more than an electronic version of a notebook that I keep each year about the climbs that I do. Note that I have only ever recorded those routes in the extreme grades. It may be elitist but in its own peculiar way it forces me to attempt routes that are close to my limit in order to keep the average grade up.

There are links to any trip reports or photos in the notes column.

Note that bolted routes are included in this list and are given French Gradings indicated by F before the grade.

22 AugBlue Scar
 Weighting in the WingsF6byFound this quite hard - haven't done anything for ages so no wonder.
 Lust but not LeastF6byA full grade easier than the last route
 In the Blue CornerF6b+yQuite dirty and not very good.
 Rip 'em off AB AgainF6a+yOne awkward move then just long reaches between jugs. Sadly retro-bolted.
 Blue RinseF6b+ Quite how this only gets F6b+ is a mystery - the moves going over the bulge are desperate if you avoid the routes to either side.
11 JulyBlue Scar
 Are we Mad?F6ayYes we probably are - quite poor.
 Phase TwoF6cyHard start and with quite sustained climbing on the upper wall.
 Fervour and FurtherF6byQuite good with a short sharp crux section.
 Rising PassionsF6byLong and sustained with some good climbing
 Midge RepellantF6byHard start and hard finish - this tired me out!
31 MayRobin Proctor’s Scar
 Wheels on FireF6a+yPleasant as ever.
 Tombstone BluesF6ayEasy - nuff said
 Subterranean Homesick BluesF6a+yA good bit harder than Wheels on Fire.
 Central ButtressF6byFound this quite easy this time.
 Drillers in the MistF6byNot done this before - one or two thin moves.
 Flying HorsemanF6ayNot done this for a few years.
 Fone Booth ConnectionF6b+yAnother one that I'd not done before - steady apart from one thin pull.
 The Yellow EdgeF6a+yFinally starting to feel tired.
30 MayEarl Crag
 Early RiserE5 Just top-roped. Found the start hard and the crux easy!!
28 MayGiggleswick North
 Tong and GrooveF6ay Not very good and quite easy.
 JoineryF6a+y Slightly harder but again poor.
 Debbie DirectF6by Retro-bolted in the lower half.
 The CraftsmanF6b+  Hard for the grade - harder than most 6cs around here. Took a flyer on the last hard move.
 Ben HurF6ay Steep on hidden holds.
 Fellsman (Revisited)F6b+  Meant to be harder than The Craftsman but really only one hard move.
 Northern SoleF6ay Pleasantly slabby.
 Ramp RaidersF6b  Nicely sustained.
 A Block off the old ChipF6ay Quite pleasant but short.
 Root Sixty SixF6ay Not very good.
26 MayLawrencefield Quarry
 Vanilla SliceE1  Thin slab climbing.
 Great PeterE1y Hard for the grade. The gear takes a bit of getting in.
 SuspenseE2  A couple of very stiff pulls on pockets.
 Delectable DirectE1  A thin move to gain the supposed crux.
 Red WallE1  A hard start but not too easy after that!
17 MayMalham
 PuddlejumperF7a  A bit much for a warm up!
 Rose CoronaryF7a  Cold and pumped from the first route - lots of rests.
 HyperspaceF6b+  Starting to get a bit damp. Binned it after this - failed to avoid Malham for another year.
10 MayForedale Quarry
 The Ace of SpadesF6a+y Not very good, don't know why it gets three stars in the guide.
 Alpine MemoriesF6by Decent sustained climbing.
 Pot BlackF6b+  A sustained middle section.
 Black JackF6ay Steady but not worth the three stars in the guide.
3 MayClifton Crag
 NebulaE1  Just one awkward move to a hidden jug, easy.
 Jugular VeinE1y Good and nicely sustained but quite easy really.
 MoonshineE2  Good climbing but a bit unbalanced with a hard start.
 Wall StreetE1y Very good but again, easy for the grade.
 The AreteE2  Very, very good. Again way overgraded.
11 AprilSwirl Crag
 BurgerE1  Quite bold in the middle.
 California WeirdoE2y A bit of a frig getting the gear in, lowered and did the moves OK.
4 AprStoney Middleton
 AlcasanE2y Steve Brock at the second crux of AlcasanWindy Buttress lived up to its id! The crag was surprisingly quiet.
 Dead Banana CrackE1  Not as polished as I seem to remember it.
29 MarStanage
 The UnprintableE1  The hard bit is low down but it’s the graunch out over the roof that you remember!
23 MarVilanova de Prades
 ADFF6a+  Just felt awkward again.
 BarrancosF6a+y Felt way harder than the stated grade, probably just tired from the three days’ climbing.
22 MarLa Mussara
 ElegosentricF6a+y Really good. Finally starting to feel like I’m moving over rock properly.
 The Talker BomF6ay Not as good as the Elegosentric. For once something that felt easy for the grade.
 No Me Bellcostes la CucaF6ay Very good and varied climbing.
21 MarLa Mussara
 PhiledelfiaF6a+y Long and sustained. Definite crux section at the top.
 AtlantidaF6a+y Quite a bit easier than Philedelfia.
 CastorF6a+y Felt a bit scrappy compared to the quality of the previous two.
 LaconiaF6ay Not very good.
20 MarVilanova de Prades
 Ruta EspinosaF6ay Stiff pull to start and a bit awkward leaving the halfway ledge.
 Serdito ValienteF6a+y A sharp pull/lurch to begin with then steady away. Felt a bit tired.
 MossenF6a+y More pocket pulling.
 RevolutionF6a+  Quite tired and sore - felt a lot harder than the given grade.
1 MarWorld’s End
 Fall OutE1y Quite easy for the grade - first E1 lead for some time.
 Butter AreteE3  Should be E2. We just top roped it after Mike and Steve had done the E3 to the right.
 CrystalE1  Top end of the grade, quite tricky.
 Taerg WalltE2  Good climbing, about HVS apart from the move to get to the peg which is desparate when you are cold.
21 FebTremadog
 Ivy CrackE1  Climbing walls just don’t prepare you for things like this! Mainly a HVS day due to cold weather.
24 JanRivelin Edge
 Better Late than Never?E1  Unintentional really, meant to do Left Edge.
17 JanGiggleswick South
 Chip off the Old BlockF6a+y Not very good.
 Rib TicklerF6cy One Steve Brock redpointing Rib Ticklerhard hard section. Need to redpoint this.
 Lazy DayF6by Quite poor. Has been retro-bolted.
 Richard of YorkF6a  Failed to lead as I suddenly began to feel tired. Also the sun had gone in so everything went cold.
 Catman DoF6a+  Probably easier than the previous route.