Bob Wightman

The Figure of Eight on the Bight

The Figure of Eight is one of the commonest climbing knots - it comes in two forms: the rethreaded version and the bight version shown here.

Attribute Notes
Strength 75%
Ease of Tying Very easy to tie.
Recognisable Easy to recognise a well formed knot but also easy to pass a malformed knot.
Also known as
Usage Tying in to the rope. Forming attachment points in the rope for belays
Advantages Strong.
Easy to tie.
Versatile - most other knots can be substituted by combinations of this knot.
Disadvantages Once the knot has been loaded it becomes difficult to undo. This difficulty increases when the rope is wet and with increased load. Not good for tying in the middle of the rope as it does not hold well under lateral tension.